Kricket has been one of those London success stories you just want to root for. Two years since they’ve entered the food scene, I believe their star is seriously rising. They’ve done well. From a small concession in a Pop Brixton shipping container to a more permanent outpost in Soho (and soon, White City). From word-of-mouth pop-up sensation to award-winning critics fave.
A far cry from the traditional Indian restaurants and curry houses peppered within the city, the vibe in Kricket Soho is cool and modern. Counter booths on the first floor and the basement, big wooden sharing tables, unfinished walls… it’s nothing new but it works beautifully.
You definitely have to order the Keralan fried chicken with curry leaf mayonnaise and pickled mouli. The chicken is perfectly fried – ie crispy, crunchy, well-seasoned and nicely spiced coating and super moist, tender flesh. Frankly, I could care less if it came with the mayo or the pickled garnish. Gimme a bowl of this and I’m happy.
The smoked aubergine with sesame raita, papdi gathia, and nuts was to die for.
Mackerel used to be something I despised, until London restaurants came up with ways of serving it beautifully and somehow guising that uber fishy taste into something more palatable. Kricket’s torched “kasundi” mackerel came with gooseberry chutney and was flavoursome in its right. Tangy, fishy enough without the gross aftertaste, bold enough to be different.
Our group ordered the Telegana beef pickle and salted paneer rotis. We waited for two servings of this as the kitchen was closing when we decided to opt for it after realising a serving only had two tacos. Frankly, it wasn’t as memorable so I won’t even try to pretend I enjoyed it.
The Karnatakan mussels were very good. One thing I hate about curried mussels is that more often than not, they have a powdery texture and aftertaste from all that spice. However, this bowl from Kricket was an exception to the rule. The mussels were actually quite big, meaty, and flavoursome. I loved this dish, too.
But what seriously surprised me, to be frank, was a simple dish of pumpkin slice, roasted and served on a bed of makhani sauce with fresh paneer. It was like eating a warm, wintery stew that felt light and perfect for the summer. Bold as the tomatoey sauce was, the pumpking had a nice bite and freshness to it. And there was decent texture from a sprinkle of hazelnut crumble and puffed wild rice.
We also tried the tandoori monkfish, served with coconut & coriander chutney. I love monkfish, and as it’s such a meaty type of fish, I find that it’s usually peppered with lots of spices and seasoning. Now the thing is, I actually prefer monkfish when it’s lightly seasoned with salt, pepper and herbs – I think the fish on its own is a standout when cooked well. Kricket’s offering was okay, but I wasn’t mindblown.
And then there was a slice of duck breast with a sesame and tamarind puree and pickled cucumber. I’m not going to lie, the duck was nicely cooked but it was the puree that stole the spotlight for me. So much so that I mopped it with what carbs we shared around the table. Unfortunately, one of the servers cleared some plates when I was preoccupied with banter and took what’s left of it on the plate. Boo. I would’ve had that on its own as a dip and paid for it!
Speaking of carbs, we tried Kricket’s version of naan in masala, cultured butter (not photographed) and green chilli and Berkswell cheese. I’m not too keen on bread, but it was necessary with the sauces and flavours we were having.
I liked the shahi tukda, an Indian bread pudding. Served with a great buttermilk ice cream, berries and dulce de leche, this was reminiscent to a French toast, with a punch. The sharpness of the berries helped cut through the sweetness of this dish, which I thought was a little on the rich side.
The misti doi with pomegranate and rose pistachio was good. There was a hint of rosewater, but not overly sickly and I liked the crunch from the pistachios.
Verdict for Kricket
I’ll be the first to admit, I’ve stalled Kricket on my “To Do” list for a long time simply because Indian food is not a favourite. However, Kricket’s offering has successfully modernised Indian food. They’re not the first to do so, no, but they made it exciting again (especially now that Dishoom has become slightly a bore). Tapas are great, the menu is short and sweet, the vibe is very Soho.
Go and order everything.
(4/5)
Kricket Soho
12 Denman St, Soho, London W1D
Ave spend pp: £30
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Kricket does sounds like an ‘If I am in the neighbourhood and fancy Indian’ kind of place. It’s tough in Soho there’s so much competition isn’t there!
I do agree! I’ve seen great places in Soho shut down only to be taken over by some new word-of-mouth popular pop-up that doesn’t deliver. Hopefully Kricket stays longer – they deserve to!
I’ve also been to Kricket and enjoyed it – we sat at the counter and I remember that the monkfish was good. Looks like you tasted lots of nice dishes
That counter was absolutely gorgeous, no? We really had a pleasant meal! x
I’m going to London in February and I’m definitely going to visit Kricket – you had me at “smoked aubergine”!
YAAAAAAAY! Please do, it’s really one of the best this year!
I’m bookmarking this because I really like the sound of Kricket. Love your photos and detailed review – in fact I want Indian tapas for supper now after reading it! Thanks for the recommendation.
I hope you get to try it out, Nancy! =) I get hungry too, after revisiting photos of places I genuinely enjoyed! =)
the dishes all look so delicious – the ambience of the restaurant also looks really nice!
Definitely one I’d recommend to go to with friends! =)
I wish they were here in Georgia. i love mussels and Indian food is a Sunday staple in my family. Great pics!
Thanks dear! I love mussels too but never really had it in Indian spices!
What a feast! I’m not much of a fan of mackerel but I do love monkfish…it doesn’t appear on menus very often though which always surprises me. I’ll be sure to order the Keralan fried chicken when I make it down xx
Actually I just realised the only places I see monkfish on the menu are mostly Indian places!
I’ve never been or heard of it ! Looks absoulately amazing! Would love to go with my other half 🙂
I hope you get to go,Kira!
The food looks SO delicious! I’m sure my husband would love this!
I highly recommend it!
I am not a huge spicy food fan but these dishes look and sound delicious. I am sure I could be tempted to try them x
Cathy they weren’t spicy at all! Hope you get to try!
All of this food looks amazing. I could just sit down here and start to tuck in. Beautiful photos 🙂
Thank you Claire! They were beautifully presented!
That pumpkin slice sounds amazing. I love this modern take on traditional Indian food, and everything looks beautifully presented. I could eat that naan in masala now!
Oh Melissa it was great! I wasn’t so sure about it but it was my fave!
I am absolutely starving this morning and these all look absolutely delicious!!
Genuinely enjoyed it and I’m defo coming back!
This all look utterly delicious I wish I lived nearer to the place to give it a try
It was definitely delicious and I hope something similar comes your way!
I have never had tapas before but they look so delicious. Its making me so hungry.
Aw Luci tapas are good as long as you pick the right Ines!
The food looks yummy and definitely very different from the traditional Indian type! I would love to try this place if I ever visit London! 🙂
Thanks for sharing.
Do drop by my blog as well : http://styleovercoffee.com 🙂
I try few Indian recipes from time to time, your food pictures are an inspiration for my future recipes. I wish I can try Kricket food!
Looks like an awesome Indian Restaurant, will visit next time I’m in London!
Your food pics look fantastic. Got me drooling over here.